Sunday, May 19, 2024

Every look from Dior Cruise 2024 – CR Fashion Book

Following Dior’s Pre-Fall 2023 show in Mumbai last March, Creative Director Maria Grazia Chiuri continues to highlight the glorious art across the globe in a runway show held in Mexico City.

While feminism and female empowerment remain central to Chiuri’s work at home, she turned to Mexican artists such as Leonora Carrington, Remedios Varo, Tina Modot and Frida Kahlo for inspiration for her Cruise 2024 collection. The latter Chiuri envisioned as the core of the collection, reflecting Kahlo’s inimitable influence and embodiment of Mexican culture, particularly indigenous culture. Held at the Antiguo Colegio de San Ildefonso – where Kahlo studied and met her husband and mentor Diego Rivera – a splash of rain illuminated by the dim lighting of the museum’s courtyard only added to the collection’s dramatic romance.

This season, Chiuri illustrated how clothing became a creative expression of Kahlo’s artistic and feminist identity. At the age of 18, Kahlo suffered a serious bus accident that left her with over 18 broken bones, particularly in her back. In response to the crash, her clothing choices doubled as a means of hiding her physical disability and expressing her creativity. On Chiuri’s runway, there were references to Kahlo’s traditional Tehuantepec clothing: layered full skirts, embroidered blouses, Team tunics and lively patterns. To accurately reproduce Kahlo’s indigenous clothing, Chiuri tapped local artisans from Oaxaca, Chiapas and Puebla to collaborate on traditional savoir faire techniques.

Like Kahlo in her clothing, Chiuri mixes traditionalism with modernism. A black leather corset in the shape of a butterfly poetically mimics the casts Kahlo wore while recovering from her injuries. Butterflies were a recurring theme in the collection, seen on rings and Mexicans bust– elegant necklace, symbol of the artist’s love for flora and fauna. Butterflies were an important symbol for Kahlo. During her recovery, she had a glass-cased butterfly diorama mounted on her bed in her home, La Casa Azul. Elsewhere, a range of menswear-inspired looks lend themselves to Kahlo’s love of androgynous fashion. She often blurred the gender style line, gravitating between men’s three-piece suits and ultra-feminine Tehuantepec clothing.

One view brought to life Kahlo’s pink dress, depicted in her 1932 painting. Self-portrait on the border between Mexico and the United States of America. Although Kahlo painted the dress in a pale shade of pink, Chiuri accentuated the strength of the tone by reimagining the off-the-shoulder dress in a bright shade of magenta.

Indeed, Kahlo used her clothing and body as a canvas to express who she was in the world. Her clothes reflected her refusal to conform, inspiring glorious strength in those who continue to admire her almost seven decades after her death. “Gringas really like me a lot and they pay attention to all the clothes and rebozo that I brought with me,” Kahlo wrote in a letter to her mother while living in San Francisco in 1930. “Their jaws drop when they see my jade necklaces.

Click through the gallery below for every look from Dior Cruise 2024.

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HomeFashionEvery look from Dior Cruise 2024 – CR Fashion Book

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