Monday, May 20, 2024

Every Look From Dior Spring/Summer 2024 – CR Fashion Book

Since taking over as Creative Director for Dior in 2016, Maria Grazia Chiuri has transformed one of the most conservatively feminine fashion houses into a symbol of women’s empowerment, ease, and practicality. It all began with Chiuri’s mission to modernize the female gaze through her designs that left an indelible mark on the fashion industry and continued on with her Spring/Summer 2024 presentation at Paris Fashion Week. 

Inside Paris’ Tuileries Garden, Chiuri’s garments showed a contrast between feminism and femininity–drawing inspiration from the historical perspective that accused rebellious women of witchcraft and sorcery. Exploring female stereotypes of the dangerous woman from the Middle Ages to 19th-century France, her collection embraced both masculine and feminine silhouettes, seamlessly blending elements from the medieval era with a modern twist. 

A gothic and witchy aesthetic filled the runway with models in sheer gowns with frayed edges, prairie-like dresses in flowing fabric, and tattered knitwear pieces that all exuded a vintage allure. Chiuri’s other designs gestured towards the masculine with oversized blazers, coats, and button-down shirts, artfully paired with skirts or transformed into dresses to add a touch of femininity to the designs. With a monochromatic color palette of black, white, and cream-beige garments, Chiuri partnered this with prints of maps, the lunar cycle, and the sun, reminiscent of witchcraft and the dark romanticism of the Gothic era. Even Dior’s iconic Mille-fleurs pattern appeared, but it had been reimagined into a motif resembling X-rays. 

However, Chiuri’s vision extended beyond her clothing, for it inspired Dior Beauty’s Creative and Image Director, Peter Philips, to create a makeup look that radiated the subtle power of a woman. With a bare face consisting of the Dior concealer and powder, lightly defined brows, and a wine-stained lip achieved using the brand’s black eyeliner, Philips captured a relaxed gothic glamor that gave an air of rebellion for every model on the runway. 

Perhaps what set apart each model’s gothic look was the striking fuschia pink and yellow striped runway, complemented by a thought-provoking video installation titled ‘Not Her.’ This installation featured provocative messages that defied conventional stereotypes about women, such as “I don’t belong to anyone else. I always make a phone call to myself” and “I am not only a mother, wife, daughter. I am a woman.” Visual artist Elena Bellantoni’s immersive art piece further enriched the theme of Chiuri’s collection, serving as a reminder of the Creative Director’s journey in challenging societal norms and empowering women to embrace their individuality through the Maison’s designs.

Click through to see Every Look From Dior Spring/Summer 2024

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