Sunday, May 19, 2024

Every Look From Gucci Spring/Summer 2024 – CR Fashion Book

At Gucci’s headquarters on Via Mecenate 77, a burgundy glow blanketed over guests aligned in a large square-shaped formation eagerly awaiting what Sabato De Sarno would unveil as his new vision for Gucci.

When the Valentino alum was appointed creative director for the heritage Italian house this past January, it was clear De Sarno would instill a new vision that would divert completely from the whimsical style that defined Alessandra Michele’s seven-year run as creative director, but it wasn’t clear exactly what direction De Sarno would lead in.

Since then, De Sarno has teased tantalizing glimpses of the creative signatures that will mark his tenure. It started with De Sarno’s first campaign, starring iconic Gucci model Daria Werbowy in her first project since retiring from the industry in 2016 wearing nothing but Gucci’s jewelry offerings and a swimsuit bottom, setting the stage for what was to come. Subsequently, a rich, velvety crimson hue emerged, gradually infusing itself into the defining elements of De Sarno’s artistic vision. According to WWD, the hue set to grace Gucci’s packaging draws inspiration from two sources: the interior of the house’s original Jackie 1961 handbag and the elevators of The Savoy Hotel in London. It was within the walls of The Savoy that Gucci’s founder, Guccio Gucci, once served as a luggage porter in his formative years, gaining invaluable insights into the realm of luxury travel that would later give birth to the house of Gucci. In contemporary fashion, there’s a growing trend of signature shades, and De Sarno’s distinctive color choice parallels other renowned hues, such as Daniel Lee’s “Burberry Blue”, Pierpaolo Piccioli’s “Pink PP” shade, and Maxmilian Davis’ bright red for Ferragamo.

Around the time of the show (3:00 PM CET, to be exact) Gucci’s Instagram posted De Sarno’s collection notes: “It’s a story of life, of humanity, of passion, of people, of real life, of irreverent glamor, of provocation, of confidence, of simplicity, of immediate feelings and emotions, of a specific type of art, of words,” he wrote. The post echoed the collection’s title: ‘Gucci Anchora’. “Ancora is a word that you use when your desire is not over yet, whether it’s a kiss or an embrace, or making love; it’s as if you own something and you want more of it.” He said in an interview with WWD.

As the red lights faded to black and conversations hushed, a score by Mark Ronson featuring Romy’s “Loveher” filled the room introducing De Sarno’s first look. The understated ensemble, consisting of a classic white tank top coupled with shorts, a sleek silver logo belt, platform horsebit loafers, a deep red Jackie 1961 handbag, bold gold jewelry, and a flawlessly tailored duster coat adorned with Gucci’s iconic red and green striping concealed in the lining, served as a prelude into De Sarno’s fresh perspective for Gucci. This vision is marked by a return to the everyday, merging the principles of luxury craftsmanship with the practicality and authenticity of everyday, candid style.

Sumptuous basics punctuated the collection in baggy denim, billowing poplin shirts, and chic little black mini dresses, all of which were styled to emphasize De Sarno’s relaxed idea of luxury, whether it was Gucci trainers paired with the mini dresses or blazers cheekily styled with nothing underneath. Glossy, patent leather was a mainstay on De Sarno’s runway, with eye-catching blazers, shift dresses, and handbags like the Bamboo 1947 and Jackie 1961 rendered in the leather finish. One extra-special design, which was seen in two separate looks during the show, showcased strips of colored patent python leather sewn together into a jacket and short set that mimicked the color palette of Gucci’s iconic striping.

Crystal-coated accents diverted from De Sarno’s minimalistic tone for the collection in twinkling bandeau tops, crystalline fringe dancing off coat hems, or decorating a high-heeled pump completely. Odes to house codes were envisioned for De Sarno’s era, such as red and green crocheted lapels or Gucci’s classic GG monogram decorating a romper, a signal to his own riff on tradition.

“It’s a story of movies, of my beloved Italy, of intellectuals and travels around the world but still feeling at home wherever you are,” De Sarno said. Indeed, echoes of the very archetypes that fueled the script for De Sarno’s inaugural collection resonated throughout. Once couldn’t help but see the free-spirited ingénue in a lace-accented pink slip dress and trench coat on her way back from the club in the early morning hours. Or perhaps a glamorous Milanese heroine in a chartreuse duster coat swaying down Via Montenapoleone. “It’s a story of everything, again, but this time expressed through joy.”

Click through the gallery to see every look from Gucci Spring/Summer 2024.

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